Tokushima ramen徳島ラーメン
A rich, dark pork-bone and soy broth topped with sweet-simmered pork and often a raw egg.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Eastern Shikoku, home of the Awa Odori dance festival. Visitors come for the Naruto whirlpools, the deep Iya Valley with its vine bridges, and Temple 1 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage.
A rich, dark pork-bone and soy broth topped with sweet-simmered pork and often a raw egg.
A small, sharp green citrus squeezed over grilled fish, noodles and almost everything else.
Thick, rustic buckwheat noodles from the Iya mountains, served in a simple broth.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
Village hot spring beside the river in Kamikatsu, with baths looking out at the green valley. Pair it with Rise & Win brewery down the road.
● Mostly localsFamily weaving mill in Tokushima city making Awa shijira, a crinkly cotton cloth dyed with indigo. Watch the old looms and buy fabric goods direct.
● Mostly localsPowerful waterfall in the southern mountains of Kaiyo, crashing into a narrow rocky chasm behind Todoroki shrine. Part of a chain of falls along the valley.
● Mostly localsSmall brewery in the old Ikeda town known for unconventional, fruity sakes with bold retro labels. Stop in for tastings and bottles you won't see outside Shikoku.
● Mostly localsRare earth pillars eroded into jagged spires on a hillside in Awa city, one of few such formations in the world. A short trail loops around them.
● Mostly localsWorking papermaking centre in Yoshinogawa where you can watch craftsmen and make your own sheet of Awa washi. The shop sells beautiful dyed papers.
● Mostly localsTarai udon is thick udon served in a big wooden tub with a dipping sauce made from river fish. This country restaurant in Awa's Donari area is one of the classic places…
● Mostly localsTokushima city's main drinking district, a few blocks of izakaya, snack bars and ramen shops. Try the local sudachi citrus squeezed on everything.
● Mostly localsPottery kiln in Otani, famed for enormous jars thrown on a wheel turned by a potter lying on the floor. Browse the shop or try a hand-building class.
● Mostly localsTemple 12, high in the mountains among giant old cedars. Pilgrims call the trail here the hardest on the route; driving up still feels remote.
● Mostly localsSandy beach in the fishing town of Hiwasa where loggerhead turtles come ashore to nest in early summer. The small turtle museum next to it explains the story.
● Mostly localsMuseum at the site of the Bando POW camp, where German prisoners gave Japan's first full performance of Beethoven's Ninth. A surprisingly warm story of cultural exchange.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.