Tai-meshi (sea bream rice)鯛めし
Two styles: Matsuyama’s rice cooked with whole sea bream, and Uwajima’s raw sea bream sashimi on rice with egg sauce.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Northwest Shikoku, famous for citrus. Matsuyama has Dogo Onsen and an original castle keep, Imabari is the Shikoku end of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, and Uchiko preserves an old merchant town.
Two styles: Matsuyama’s rice cooked with whole sea bream, and Uwajima’s raw sea bream sashimi on rice with egg sauce.
A chewy fried fish cake made from small whole fish, bones and all, from the Uwajima area.
Ehime grows dozens of citrus varieties; try fresh fruit, juice or citrus desserts in winter and spring.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
Uwajima fish-cake maker famous for jakoten, a fried patty of small whole fish, bones and all. Buy it hot from the shop.
● Mostly localsSmall, quiet hot-spring village in a green valley south of Imabari, known for silky alkaline water. A good soak after cycling the Shimanami Kaido.
● Mostly localsLong narrow peninsula reaching towards Kyushu, with a white lighthouse at the tip. Walk the trail from the car park.
● Mostly localsGorge in the Uwajima mountains with smooth granite riverbeds and the Yukiwa Falls. Try canyoning in summer.
● Mostly localsTemple 45 built into a huge cliff deep in the Kuma highlands, with a wooden ladder up to a cave.
● Mostly localsTemple 52 of the pilgrimage in north Matsuyama, reached by a long approach through old gates. Its main hall is a national treasure, and the grounds are rarely crowded.
● Mostly localsClear blue-green stream through granite cliffs at the foot of Mt Ishizuchi. Autumn leaves are spectacular.
● Mostly localsImabari diner famous for yakibuta tamago meshi: roast pork and fried egg on rice with sweet sauce, a local soul food.
● Mostly localsOld Matsuyama shop serving nabeyaki udon, sweet broth and soft noodles in individual aluminium pots. Only a couple of dishes on the menu.
● Mostly localsMatsuyama's main nightlife district of izakaya and bars. Try local sea bream and mikan-based drinks.
● Mostly localsMining theme park in Niihama where you ride a train into a former copper mine. Visit the Togo ruins in the mountains too.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.