Katsuo no tatakiかつおのたたき
Bonito seared over a burning straw fire, sliced thick and eaten with garlic, onion and salt or ponzu.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Shikoku’s wild Pacific side, known for big-hearted drinking culture and seared bonito. Kochi city has an original castle and Hirome Market, and the clear Shimanto River and Cape Ashizuri lie in the far southwest.
Bonito seared over a burning straw fire, sliced thick and eaten with garlic, onion and salt or ponzu.
Huge platters of sashimi, sushi and side dishes shared at Kochi banquets.
Kochi is a major yuzu producer; look for yuzu drinks, ponzu and yuzu-flavoured sweets.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
Artisan salt maker in the coastal town of Tano, drying seawater by hand in sunny greenhouses by the sea. The salt is prized by chefs across Japan; small bags make great…
● Mostly localsRemote hot spring in the Befu Gorge in Kami, with a public bath overlooking the mountains. Autumn colours in the gorge are beautiful.
● Mostly localsSusaki diner serving nabeyaki ramen, chicken-soy broth in a clay pot with egg and fish cake.
● Mostly localsOld town in Muroto with plaster-walled merchant houses and stone walls built against typhoons.
● Mostly localsFormer samurai quarter in Aki with hedges, stone walls and old wooden gates lining quiet lanes. Pair it with the Aki castle-site museum and the Iwasaki Yataro house.
● Mostly localsThatched farmhouse in Aki where Iwasaki Yataro, founder of Mitsubishi, was born. A small, simple stop in the countryside, with the stone garden he made said to…
● Mostly localsKochi's long-established sweet shop, famous for umeboshi, a soft pink rice-cake sweet, and crunchy ginger-flavoured cookies. A classic Kochi souvenir.
● Mostly localsTiny island in the far southwest with water so clear that boats seem to float in the air. Great for snorkelling and diving in summer.
● Mostly localsRoadside station on the upper Shimanto River in Towa, selling local chestnut sweets, tea and produce. The riverside terrace is lovely.
● Mostly localsWorkshop in Kuroshio town where you sear bonito over flaming straw to make your own katsuo tataki, then eat it with salt and garlic.
● Mostly localsLarge, respected brewery in Aki known for clean, dry Tosa-style sake. The adjoining visitor hall has displays on brewing and a shop with tastings.
● Mostly localsRiverside restaurant on the lower Shimanto River serving local river food: grilled eel, tempura of river shrimp and green laver. Tables look out over the water.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.
Lively food hall where everyone shares tables. Order katsuo tataki seared over straw fire and drink with the locals.
Crescent beach of Kochi city with pine-covered cliffs and a giant statue of Sakamoto Ryoma gazing out to sea. Waves are strong, so swimming isn't allowed; walk to the…
Long street market along Otesuji every Sunday, with hundreds of stalls selling farm produce, knives, snacks and flowers. Try imo-ten, sweet potato tempura.