Basashi (horse sashimi)馬刺し
Thinly sliced raw horse meat, eaten with sweet soy sauce, ginger and garlic.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Central Kyushu, dominated by the vast Aso caldera. Kumamoto city has its great castle and Suizenji garden, while Kurokawa Onsen and the Amakusa islands offer rural hot springs and coastline.
Thinly sliced raw horse meat, eaten with sweet soy sauce, ginger and garlic.
Pork-bone ramen flavoured with fried garlic chips and black garlic oil (mayu).
Lotus root stuffed with mustard-miso, battered and fried, then sliced.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
Local family favourite by Lake Ezu with a zoo, amusement rides and gardens. Easily reached by tram.
● Mostly localsKuma shochu distillery in Hitoyoshi with free tours of its storehouse and tastings of the rice shochu this valley is known for.
● Mostly localsMeiji-era stone harbour designed by a Dutch engineer, with old buildings along the quay. Part of a World Heritage listing but rarely busy.
● Mostly localsHillside temple that holds the grave of Kato Kiyomasa, reached by a long stairway lined with stone lanterns.
● Mostly localsRebuilt Edo-style wooden public bathhouse in the centre of Yamaga, with silky alkaline water.
● Mostly localsMuseum of Yamaga's golden lanterns, intricate shrines and castles made from nothing but paper and glue. See the craftsmen's work up close.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.
One of Japan's great castles, with sweeping curved stone walls. An elevated walkway lets you watch the ongoing earthquake repair work up close.
Official home base of Kumamon, the black bear mascot famous across Japan. Check the schedule and time your visit for one of his dance appearances.
Food and souvenir village at the foot of Kumamoto Castle. Snack your way through ikinari dango, karashi renkon and horse-meat croquettes.
Stroll garden with a miniature Mount Fuji and a spring-fed pond so clear you see every carp. Have matcha at the old Kokin Denju teahouse.
Rustic hot-spring village in a wooded valley. Buy a wooden 'nyuto tegata' pass to hop between three outdoor baths of different inns.