Shirasu-donしらす丼
Rice topped with tiny whitebait, raw or boiled, a Kamakura and Enoshima favourite in season.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Just south of Tokyo: the port city of Yokohama, Kamakura’s temples and Great Buddha, Enoshima island, and Hakone’s hot springs with views of Mount Fuji.
Rice topped with tiny whitebait, raw or boiled, a Kamakura and Enoshima favourite in season.
Yokohama-born ramen with a rich pork-and-soy broth, thick noodles, spinach and nori.
Eggs boiled in Owakudani’s volcanic hot springs until the shells turn black.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
A craft hall in the Hakone village where yosegi wood marquetry comes from, with demonstrations and short workshops.
● Mostly localsA small covered market near Kamakura Station where local farmers sell colourful Kamakura vegetables in the morning. Chefs from around Shonan shop here.
● Mostly localsA dam lake in the Tanzawa mountains with a suspension bridge and lakeside park, popular with local families and drivers.
● Mostly localsAn open-air museum in Kawasaki of relocated thatched farmhouses and village buildings from across Japan, some with fires lit in the hearths.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.
Kamakura's giant bronze Buddha, sitting in the open air since its hall was washed away long ago. Come early to see it before the tour groups arrive.
A volcanic valley of steaming vents and sulphur rock above Hakone, reached by ropeway. Try the black eggs boiled in the hot springs.
Japan's largest Chinatown, a grid of hundreds of restaurants, steamed-bun stalls and the colourful Kanteibyo temple. Eat your way along the side streets, not just the…
A small island off the Shonan coast with a hilltop shrine, the Sea Candle lighthouse tower and sea caves at the far end.
A shrine in cedar forest on Lake Ashi, famous for its red torii standing in the water.
Pirate-ship-styled boats cross Lake Ashi between Togendai and Moto-Hakone, with views of Mount Fuji on clear days.
The small green train running from Fujisawa to Kamakura along the Shonan coast, squeezing past houses and the sea.
A hillside temple with a tall wooden Kannon statue, a cave of carved deities and sea views.
Kamakura’s Hato Sabure dove-shaped cookies, Kiyoken shumai from Yokohama and Hakone yosegi marquetry boxes are classics.
Spring and autumn are most pleasant, June brings hydrangeas to Kamakura and Hakone, and winter offers the clearest views of Mount Fuji.