Okinawa soba沖縄そば
Thick wheat noodles (not buckwheat) in a pork and bonito broth, topped with simmered pork.
Local tips, regional food and places off the tourist trail
Japan’s subtropical island chain, once the Ryukyu Kingdom, with its own food, music and culture. The main island has Naha, Shuri Castle and the Churaumi Aquarium, while Ishigaki and Miyako offer coral reefs and quieter beaches.
Thick wheat noodles (not buckwheat) in a pork and bonito broth, topped with simmered pork.
A stir-fry of bitter melon with tofu, egg and pork, a home-cooking staple.
Pork belly slow-braised in awamori, soy sauce and brown sugar until meltingly soft.
Places mostly visited by people who live here — quieter, and often the highlight of a trip.
Old aristocratic residence in Ishigaki town with a rock garden, a rare example of Ryukyu-era samurai architecture.
● Mostly localsA little-known shrine hidden in the forested Sueyoshi Park, reached by old stone steps through the trees. Feels worlds away from the city despite being in Naha.
● Mostly localsModest local shrine in Hirara town, the main shrine of the Miyako Islands, with a small hilltop setting near the port. Few visitors besides locals.
● Mostly localsOkinawa City's street by the Kadena base gate, lined with old bars, live music venues and international restaurants. A gritty, unique mix of Okinawan and American…
● Mostly localsA well-preserved old farmhouse of an Okinawan gentry family, with stone walls, a pig pen and fukugi windbreak trees. A rare glimpse of traditional rural life.
● Mostly localsHistoric awamori distillery in Shuri where you can see the production and taste the local rice spirit. A good introduction to aged kusu awamori.
● Mostly localsMangrove forest on the east coast of Yanbaru, best explored by kayak with a local guide. Look for fiddler crabs and mudskippers at low tide.
● Mostly localsTiny Motobu shop serving only one thing: Okinawan zenzai, shaved ice over sweet red beans. A refreshing local treat on a hot day.
● Mostly localsThe places most visitors come for. Worth it — just go early.
Naha's main street, lined with souvenir shops, Okinawan restaurants and awamori bars. Duck into the covered arcades branching off it for older, cheaper shops.
One of the world's great aquariums, with whale sharks and manta rays gliding past a giant viewing window. Stay for the free dolphin shows outside.
Hilltop seat of the old Ryukyu Kingdom, with stone gates, walls and views over Naha. Walk the outer ramparts and the quiet Kinjo-cho stone path just below for a gentler…
Grassy clifftop above an emerald sea with a rock formation shaped like an elephant's trunk. Beautiful at sunset.
Tiny island of coral-stone walls, red-tiled roofs and white sand lanes, best explored by bicycle or water buffalo cart. Stay into the evening after the day-trippers…
Cape famous for the Blue Cave, where sunlight turns the water glowing blue, plus excellent snorkelling and diving. Go with a tour; the steps down are steep.
Naha's famous public market: buy colourful fish or pork downstairs and have it cooked for you at the restaurants upstairs. A lively intro to Okinawan ingredients.
Colourful seaside shopping and dining area in Chatan with a Ferris wheel and an American-style feel. Best around sunset, when the sea wall fills with people.
Chinsuko shortbread, beni-imo (purple sweet potato) tarts, and awamori, the local distilled spirit.
April and October to November are warm without the worst heat; avoid the May–June rainy season and peak typhoon months if you can.