Iwamura: Castle Ruins, Sake and a Samurai-Movie Street

Some towns in Japan feel like somebody built a movie set and forgot to take it down. Iwamura (岩村), in Ena City, Gifu, is one of those. It's a long old street of wooden shops, a mountain castle sitting above it, and a sake brewery that practically everyone in the region has an opinion about. It's about 15 minutes from Ena Station by car, and it's one of my favorite days out in the whole area.

The old castle-town street in Iwamura at dusk, lined with wooden shops

The castle on the mountain

Let's start at the top. Iwamura Castle (岩村城跡) sits at around 717 meters, which makes it one of the highest-sited castles in Japan. It dates back to the late 1100s, and over the centuries it passed through the hands of some of the big names of the Sengoku era. There's no tower anymore, but the stone walls are still there, along with old gate sites, wells, and a shrine, all tucked into thick forest.

Moss-covered stone walls of Iwamura Castle, rising out of the forest

There's also a good story attached. In the 1500s the castle was held for a time by a woman, known as the "female castle lord" (女城主, onna jōshu), and that nickname is all over town today. Once you notice it, you'll see it on everything.

How to do the climb. There are two ways in:

Park at the top. A small lot sits near the top, and you can walk the ruins without much effort. The road is narrow and steep, so if you're nervous about that kind of driving, think twice. (I've seen kei cars make it up just fine.)
Walk up from the town. This is the old route and it's a real hike. My friend and I did it in summer and we were absolutely dripping by the time we got there. Bring water, pack light, and take your time.

The forest path through the Iwamura Castle ruins

If you want to do both, park at the top, walk down through the ruins to the town, and then, well, decide how much you hate yourself on the way back up.

For photographers, the forest is the star here. Lots of moss, old stone, and filtered light. If you get a clear day, the view over the surrounding mountains from the top is great too.

Stone steps climbing through the cedar forest at Iwamura Castle

A view over the mountains and the town below from Iwamura Castle

The old street

At the bottom you've got the castle-town street, with old merchant houses and shops lined up on both sides. It's a quiet kind of place, and it's the kind of walk where you realize you've been wandering for an hour. There are plenty of sweets shops along the way, and it's worth stopping at a few.

A shop on the Iwamura main street with an ice cream cone sign out front

A narrow alley covered in fallen leaves in the old town of Iwamura

If you're driving, the easiest approach is to park in one of the public lots at the edge of the old town and walk in. Just follow the signs, or let Google Maps do the work.

Sake and amazake ice cream

Now for the best part. Right on the main street is the local sake brewery, famous around here for a sake called Onna Jōshu (女城主). Say that name to anyone in the Tono area of Gifu and they'll nod and tell you their favorite way to drink it.

A sake barrel decorated with the Onna Jōshu female castle lord at the Iwamura brewery

When I went, tasting was free, and you can try a bunch of different styles, including a yuzu one. There's a little shop and bar area at the front, and if you follow the walkway through the building you can see old tools and photos from the brewery's history. It's small enough that you can see the staff working up close, which I love. If your Japanese is up to it, ask them questions while they work.

Not a drinker? Try the amazake (甘酒), a sweet drink made from fermented rice with little or no alcohol. They also sell amazake ice cream, which sounds adventurous and tastes like really good vanilla ice cream. Look for the giant ice cream cone out front and you've found the right place.

Tasting arrangements can change, and if you're driving, obviously pass on the free samples. Check the brewery's hours before you go.

Getting there

By car: About 15 minutes from Ena. Parking near the old town is easy compared to most places in Japan.
By train: The Akechi Railway runs from Ena to Iwamura Station, and the old town is a short walk from there. It's a scenic little line, and worth riding for its own sake.

Is it worth it?

If you only have time for one stop in this corner of Gifu, make it Iwamura. You get history, a decent hike, great snacks, and almost no crowds. It's about as far from the Kyoto tourist crush as you can get while still feeling like you're in old Japan.

You can find more picks in the Gifu guide, or open the NipponNavi map and look for Iwamura.