The Giant Wooden Waterwheel at Obaachan-ichi Yamaoka

I'll be upfront. "Giant wooden waterwheel" isn't going to make everybody's must-see list. But hear me out, because the road station that sits next to it is one of the best spots in this part of Gifu, and the drive out is half the reason to go.

The place is called Obaachan-ichi Yamaoka (道の駅 おばあちゃん市・山岡), which translates roughly to "Grandma's Market, Yamaoka." The waterwheel here is about 24 meters across and ranks among the biggest wooden waterwheels in Japan. It really turns, and it really is big.

Getting there

This is a drive-only kind of place. There's no train or bus that gets you close, so you'll need a car (or a friend with one). Taxis from Ena would be painfully expensive.

The upside is the drive itself. You wind through mountains, valleys, rivers and rice fields, and spring and autumn are the best seasons for it. It's also a favorite with local motorcycle riders, since the roads curve through some really nice scenery.

The bridge and the dam

There are a couple of parking areas, and from there you've got two ways to the waterwheel. One goes across a suspension bridge with a great view of the wheel, the Ori River dam, and the valley around it. It's a good spot for portraits and landscape shots.

Here's the thing I love about it: it doesn't get slammed with tourists. If you've ever tried to take a clean photo at a famous spot in Japan, you know how rare that is. Here you can take your time setting up a shot, and you won't spend your evening editing strangers out of the background.

Food

Since this is a roadside station, you can eat and shop here:

• A restaurant serving soba and home-style dishes, cooked the way the local grandmas make them. It gets packed at lunch, especially on weekends, so go early or at an off hour.
• A souvenir and produce area with local goods from Ena and the surrounding hills.
• Gohei mochi (五平餅), the local specialty: grilled rice on a skewer, brushed with a savory-sweet miso and sesame sauce. If you've never had it, this is a good place to start. Cheap, filling, and very Gifu.

The wheel itself

The footpath runs pretty close to the waterwheel, so a wide-angle lens helps if you want the whole thing in the frame. Take the splash seriously, though. I got sprayed the first time and my lens was soaked. Watch where the water falls off the wheel before you set up, and bring a microfiber cloth.

There's also a lookout with a bell you can ring. It's a nice spot for a group photo with the valley, river and dam behind you.

Hours and getting the timing right

The station is generally open from morning to late afternoon, with slightly shorter hours in winter, and it closes around the New Year. Check before you go, especially for winter and February closures.

Is it worth it?

If you're in Ena with a car and a free half-day, yes. You get a big waterwheel, a bridge with a view, and good food, with the bonus of a scenic mountain drive. It's the kind of stop that feels very local, and that's exactly what I look for in a trip.

You can find more nearby in the Gifu guide, or open the NipponNavi map to plan the drive.